A little bit of chasing around and I've found the right chap at Nokia to badger about getting access to their Python for series 60 phones. It looks like I've managed to get much the same deal as Russ, in that I've got to sign an NDA, I can't re-distribute the app to others and there's some things I can't talk about, but on the whole it's great. Ewan is also giving it a go and you should see some comments from us both about Python on AAS.
So I'm waiting for my (not very onerous) NDA to wing it's way off to Nokia - snail mail, how quaint. In the mean time I'd better Dive Into Python to brush up on my Pythonic skills.